Enamelling examples date back to the Mycenaean period around 13th century BC. Gold rings were discovered in a tomb at Kouklia in Cyprus which were gold decorated with various colours. Since that period in time people around the world have been using enamels in a variety of ways but originally these were all in some form of adornment of everyday items of the time.
The ancient Egyptian adorned pieces with coloured glass although these were primarily added as pieces of glass rather than fired
Enamels have appeared through many civilisations throughout history. The Greeks were using it and examples exist dating back to the 5th Century BC although the pieces are scarce signalling that they were not great users of enamels.
The Celts were using enamels as Caeser discovered when Rome conquered Britain, many examples of Celt enamel ware can be found around the UK in various museums.
There are many examples throughout history of ways of using glass in jewellery and to adorn items such as swords, and various gifts. The most common types used in jewellery today are cloisonné where the design is made up of fine wires the spaces between which are filled with vitreous enamel, and die struck designs where the design is formed by striking the metal which is then filled with enamel.
Vitreous enamel is from the latin for glass ‘vitreum’. The enamels are manufactured by specialist companies who create glass and mix it with oxides and other elements to produce colours. This glass is then ground to a fine powder and placed in the design by highly skilled enamellers before firing at temperatures from +44 152 7835375 degrees centigrade which makes the metal flow and on cooling becomes glass again.
The enamel once fired is typically smoothed by hand using fine files before firing again and then being polished.
Enamels are produced in opaque and translucent colours, translucent helps see designs below the surface such as engine turning, engraving or struck designs.
Men’s jewellery has focused on cufflinks and, to a lesser degree, tie-pins for the use of enamels although many pairs today that describe themselves as enamelled actually use a resin material, often referred to as cold enamel, rather than vitreous. There really is no comparison between the two in terms of quality and durability. Resin often falls out entirely and is affected by temperatures. While vitreous enamels are certainly more expensive the investment gives a piece of jewellery that will last a lifetime and are often passed on through generations.
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